A new work, an half-organic city born from a demented mind: Aberrantia… residential living bulbs are surrounded by degenerate broken geometries and metallic structures….
Also available for free digital use in the download area as multi resolution wallpaper!
Uplistikhe is a stone-carved cave city in central Georgia. It was an important political, religious and commercial center, especially in pre-Christian times and, later, during the occupation of Tbilisi by the Arabs (around 650 AD).
During its maximum expansion the city was inhabited by 20000 people, its importance declined until 1240 AD, when it was destroyed by Mongols.
During the pre-Christian era the Sun Goddess was worshipped in the temples of the city and the holes in the floors were probably used to store food and/or for the sacrifices to deities.
This city (and other similar cave cities in Georgia or other countries) are spectacular, with rooms, halls, even thrones carved in the stone…. the final example of subtractive manufacturing 😉
The artwork creation itself was interesting, the contrast in the image was extreme, the clear sunlight from the ceiling hole and the windows cast a molten-lava shape on the floor. The warm/cold color contrast is exaggerated, (less than expected) and it was present in the original image.
I’ve made the details from the light shapes and the patterns on the blue floor in the foreground the main “attractions”. The lines, shapes from the sculpted details in the darkness on the back are very interesting too. After some adjustments I brought them back from the shadows… they give a sense of depth and perspective.
The hint of a wide angle, combined with the colors and strong patterns gives, in my opinion, a dream-like aspect to the whole image, suggesting the solemnity of an ancient temple to forgotten gods.
Let me know your impression in the comments! 😉
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It’s an interesting mix of polygonal and generative art, a constantly transforming symmetrical shape.
I wanted the motion to be fluid but somewhat crystalline. I recorded some metallic sound and manipulated it to underscore that aspect…
I like the results, especially when listening through earphones.
A bit of compositing made the highlights glowing, it also enhanced their motion and shape.
It’s also the first animation with patrons credits… (my Patreon)
Second Photography Basics tutorial from the series! (intro and index here).
Exposure time, or shutter speed, is the amount of time the shutter remains open, to let light into the film or sensor of your camera. If you already know exposure you might want to skip to the animation showing everything #INaGIF, if you want to know what we’re talking about, go on reading 
That’s easy! This of course will determine the global brightness of the picture, but it will also define more or less the captured moving objects. If you want a very defined and sharp moving object, it’s better to have a fast shutter (short exposure), while if you’re only portraying still objects, or if you’re aiming for a creative effect, you can use a slower shutter.
Here you can see a fan series with different values (the right part of the images is corrected as always, to make things more visible).
0.5
1/60
1/400
1/1600
1/4000
The unit of measure is seconds, so the above examples range from 0.5 seconds to 1/4000th of a second.
Also in this series I changed a single setting ONLY (exposure), you can see things getting very dark or very bright pretty fast. In a future series I will use all settings to give a comprehensive example.
To have good result with a handheld camera and slow moving or still objects a good common setting is around 1/60 or 1/80. A general rule is to have the speed corresponding to your lens’ focal length reciprocal, so 1/50 for a 50mm, 1/300 for a 300mm and so on. This can vary depending on how steady you hand is, how you handle your camera, your position, camera and lens weight, your heart rate, etc. For example, snipers breathing techniques can help a lot with relatively long exposures or “long” lenses.
A short or fast exposure corresponds to a fast shutter, that’s less time it stays open, to summarize this part, here’s an animated recap*:
Exposure #INaGIF
Fast Exposure Time<-> Less Light Captured <-> “Freezed” movements
or
Taking pictures with a slower shutter requires usually a tripod or some sort of decent camera support. Of course, that’s if you want your subjects focused and defined, experimenting with long exposures while moving the camera around could be pretty interesting….
It’s possible to reach extreme results with specific accessories, to capture, for example, the movement of the stars as a trail, or a bullet in mid-air, as if freezed.
More info on Exposure Time on Wikipedia.
If you’ve find those info useful, please consider supporting my Patreon campaign for more tutorials and custom art!
*As always, #INaGIF animations are conceptual and serve the purpose of explaing a behavior, some aspects are exaggerated or reduced to clearly show the fundamental notions.
First Photography Basics tutorial from the series! (intro and index here).
Aperture indicates how much light enters your camera. If you already know aperture you might want to skip to the animation showing everything #INaGIF, if you want to know what we’re talking about, go on reading 
There’s a diaphragm inside your camera lens that can be wide or narrow:
f min
f mid
f max
Here’s an animation showing the diaphragm opening and closing:
Of course the math giving the f number has the diameter as denominator in a fraction, so basically:
and
f is usually indicated as f/value (for now let’s ignore the why), where “value” is a number, usually from around 3 to around 15 (limits can be higher and lower, depending on lens).
here you can see the effects of different f values in a series. Left part of the images is exactly as shot, the right part is corrected for measurement (top scale is cm, bottom is inches):
f/1.4
f/3.2
f/5
f/10
f/16
What can you easily see from the pics above?
–LIGHT: the amount of light for low value of f is higher, so the image is lighter (the diaphragm is “more open”, so more light enters the lens and reach the film/sensor):
F/1.4
F/16
–DOF: (Depth Of Field) is greatly reduced for low value of f. The area (defined by the distance, or DEPTH from the camera) in focus, is smaller and smaller for lower f values.
In the last pictures some elements are out-of-focus because they’re near the lens. Too much for it to be able to keep them in focus, at ANY f setting.
The amount of light and DOF can change for different lenses, depending on size and lot of other parameters, but all of them show this same general behaviour.
One f-stop corresponds to a single step, up or down, in your camera’s settings (so, for example from 5.6 to 8, or from 2 to 1.4). Each step will double or halve the pupil area and, consequently, the amount of light passing through the diaphragm.
So, to summarize this part, here’s an animated recap:
Aperture #INaGIF
More Light Caught <-> Less Depth Of Field <-> Lower f Value
or, if you prefer
One last thing: most lenses have the maximum sharpness for subjects in focus at around f/10 or f/11, but it really depends on each lens and it’s better to experiment and find it.
More info on Aperture on Wikipedia.
Please consider supporting my Patreon campaign for more tutorials and costom art!
Hi, this is a quick tutorial explaining the FEW things you need to know to take good pictures consistently. Not saying that you can’t get a nice shot when catching the phone while it’s falling…. it’s just that you cannot be sure you’ll get a nice photo each time
I’ll keep the technical explanations to a minimum or I’ll oversimplify, to have you on track as quick as possible. So you can go experimenting by yourself (that’s always the most important thing).
All the things I know are self-taught or I’ve learned when shooting (I used to have a video production studio years ago). Probably some things will not be perfectly accurate, I will go in depth with a more rigorous method and specific subjects in the future, maybe.
Even the most complex reflex camera has just a few controls you have to know before using it. Those are the basics for all Photography. Knowing those makes you also understand the basic working parameters of video cameras.
So here’s the two main parameters you need to control (or at least know about):
These are other very important things you should be able to change, if needed, and know about:
So you see, there’s not much… these are the parameters you have to experiment with in your camera. They’re usually available in non-reflex cameras also, while smartphones are more limited. Of course you have to put everything in manual mode.
I use manual mode almost always, switching to semi-auto (aperture- or shutter-piority) only if I don’t have the time to set everything by hand. That’s usually because something is moving or if, for some other reason, there’s little time to shoot.
I’ll publish the above parts during the next few days and link them above!
Please consider supporting my Patreon campaign for more tutorials and costom art!
Mtskheta 00
Main subject is Svetitskhoveli cathedral, on the hill in the background it’s possible to see Jvari Monastery.
The cathedral is strongly illuminated during the night, that makes the shot a bit “strange”, I had to actually turn the main building darker (pretty odd, in a nightshot), while keeping details on the facade to make it interesting.
The town is small and very nice with a lot of historical sites, the surroundings are interesting and beautiful, hidden monasteries in the mountains and woods.
If you want to help my art and get some exclusive works in return, here’s my Patreon.
Also you can find my shop here and some digital editions on Sedition Art.
Let me know if you like the image!
